Updated · By the AMS Parts team
When a final drive goes on an excavator or track loader, you have more choices than it might seem: a seal kit, a rebuild, a reman unit, a new aftermarket drive, a new OEM drive, or a used one. The cheapest option up front isn't always the cheapest one by the end of the year.
It usually comes down to three things. How long can the machine sit? How much is the machine worth? And how long are you keeping it?
The options
| Option | What it is | Upfront cost | Downtime | Warranty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Seal kit | New seals on your existing drive. | Lowest | Hours to a day or two | Typically none if you do it yourself |
| Rebuild | Your drive opened up and the worn parts replaced. | Low to medium | Days to weeks | Often 90 days to 6 months |
| Reman | Fully torn down, every part checked, restored to spec, swapped for yours. | Medium, often 30–50% under OEM | Short if in stock | Varies by supplier |
| New aftermarket | New drive from a non-OEM maker, built to fit your machine. | Medium | Short, bolts right on | Often a year or more |
| New OEM | New from the dealer. | Highest | Depends on dealer stock | Manufacturer's warranty |
| Used | Pulled from a salvaged machine. | Lowest for a complete drive | Short | Most often comes with one, but verify before ordering |
Price and warranty ranges are typical for the industry, not AMS terms. Exact coverage and pricing depend on the specific unit.
Rebuilt and reman aren't the same thing
People use the words interchangeably, but they're not. A rebuild usually fixes what broke and the obvious wear items. The drive is only as good as the oldest part left inside it. A reman drive gets completely torn down, and every part is measured and either brought back to spec or replaced.
When you're comparing quotes, ask two questions: what got replaced, and who did the work?
When a seal kit is enough
If you caught a leak early and the gear oil is still clean, a seal kit might be all you need. If there's metal on the drain plug, it isn't. The bearings and gears are already hurt, and new seals won't change that. Not sure which you're looking at? Start with the seven signs a final drive is failing.
When to spend more, and when not to
If the machine is on a job and down, a drive that's on the shelf today usually beats a cheaper rebuild that's two weeks out. On a high-hour machine you're planning to sell, an OEM drive is hard to justify. On the machine your whole crew depends on, a bargain used drive with no warranty is a gamble.
We have found that our customers get a lot of value from our aftermarket and rebuild options, but it's certainly a case-by-case, machine-by-machine situation.
How we help
We have our own hydraulic shop and we're not tied to one manufacturer, so we can present options that actually fit your machine and let you make the decision. Please have the part number available, or the machine make and model, and we'll walk through it.
Not sure which drive you have? Find your part number.